Sunday, July 26, 2009

Candy Kitchen Makes Savannah the Real City that Never Sleeps

From Another Cook in the Kitchen


As a child, I was never exposed to the movie Willy Wonka, so I have no bizarre emotional attachment to notions of golden tickets, oompa loompas or chocolate rivers. So when I finally got around to watching the movie at 21 or so, I was more thoroughly creeped out than enchanted. But walking through Savannah’s Candy Kitchen on the historic waterfront made me realize what it is that draws children generation after generation to that bizarre movie: the candy of course!


On our last night in Savannah, we walked into the Kitchen in search of some post-dinner gelato. These little shops serving the icy Italian concoction seem to pop up every few blocks in Savannah. Though certainly not a regional dish and not traditional either, it makes total sense amid the humidity and heat of thick Southern night air. If anything, a tiny plastic spoonful of the stuff is exactly what you need to relax after the sun goes down (and I bet the extra sweet creaminess gelato offers gives it an obvious edge over ice cream for the local waistlines).


I had the good fortune of getting in line a moment after approximately 10 children, likely all between 8 and 12 and oddly all parentless, decided the best way to spend their night was to sample every flavor the store had to offer. While this was mildly annoying, it was also the perfect sight. Seeing all those kids huddle around shouting for their favorite flavor instantly set the mood to what might be the most impressive candy store spread I’ve ever seen.



From Another Cook in the Kitchen



I got a small half-pannacotta half-pistachio cup, the pannecotta practically indiscernible from sweet cream flavored straciatella I’ve ordered during past gelato runs. The Candy Kitchen has both flavors, so it’d be interesting to taste test them next to each other. The pistachio half might have been the best gelato decision I’ve ever made. The complex nuttiness of the dish gave a bold edge to what could have easily been a fairly standard cold dairy confection.


Gelato in tow, I could now wander around the rest of the store. This is where the Willy Wonka side of things steps in. Machines shooting out roll after roll of taffy into giant bins, wheels churning velvety vats of what will turn into fudge, 10-foot-long trays of caramel and pecan treats, this place has enough sugar in it to keep a kindergarten class on a week-long bender.



From Another Cook in the Kitchen



What might be the most impressive sight in the entire store are the trays of candied apples available at another counter toward the middle of the giant store. In fact, calling anything else a candied apple after seeing these teeth rotting monsters almost seems silly. Apples bigger than softballs, The Candy Kitchen dips and decorates them in numerous types of caramel and chocolate. Some are even studded with M&Ms.




From Another Cook in the Kitchen


And if your caffeine fix isn't through by the time you've devoured the store's chocolaty treats, the store also has a few prepackaged items, including Paula Deen's brand of coffee.


In all, The Candy Kitchen proved to be not only delicious but necessary for making it through the hot night air back to our hotel.

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